1. Using a mortar and pestle, pound garlic and chiles until broken into small pieces.
2. Add remaining ingredients.
3. Use a spoon to scrape the sides of the mortar and turn the ingredients.
4. Pound the papaya until it is limp and soft.
5. Taste and adjust the seasonings to a balance of sour, hot, salt and sweet.
6. Garnish with fresh ongchoi, in 4-inch pieces.