Literally the old boy's jam, this recipe is ancient and estimated-it is usually made using handsful of fruit and adding Armagnac until it looks like enough. Once you have added your fruit, it should sit a good two or three months before you have any-and then it will last a year (if you don't have it all before then). I have guess-timated amounts for purposes of this recipe-but basically it requires a good-sized glass jar, a bottle of Armagnac, and red berries as they come into season. Start at midsummer with strawberries, continue adding fruit as it ripens-rasberries, boysenberries, currants, pouring the brandy over the fruit. Once it ripens, the liquid makes a wonderful cordial and the berries are delicious. You can replenish your supply during the winter by adding more Armagnac.